A Fork in the Road Podcast: Decimal Place Farm

Credit: DecimalPlaceFarm.com

 

A Fork in the Road Podcast

Seven Miles From Chaos: A Goat Dairy Oasis - Show Notes

Introduction:

Today, we journey to Conley, Ga., just south of Atlanta, to Decimal Place Farm. This 40-acre goat dairy, owned by Mary Hart Rigdon, produces award-winning milks and cheeses. We're joined by celebrated chef Duane Nutter, a James Beard Award semifinalist, who's reconnecting with local farms for his new Atlanta restaurant, Southern National.

Chef Nutter's Return to Georgia:

Chef Nutter, formerly of One Flew South, explains his return to Atlanta: "It was time to come home." He's eager to build relationships with local farmers, saying, "Now I’m actually boots on the ground. So watching the whole process and everything." He emphasizes the state's diverse offerings: "The state has a huge variety ... more and more people are starting to develop products ... that’s local and good and different from the grocery store shelves."

Decimal Place Farm's Story:

Mary Hart Rigdon shares the farm's origins: "Decimal Place started when I was living in Grant Park on a tenth of an acre." Her desire to be a stay-at-home mother led her to dairy goats. "When we got here, I got two little goats and we started milking and I made the cheese in the kitchen." Demand grew organically: "People kept coming down the driveway wanting the goat milk." In 2008, Decimal Place became a legal, Grade-A dairy, supplying local chefs like Nutter for 15 years.

Farm Operations and Philosophy:

Rigdon prioritizes quality and animal welfare: "This is a small operation. I like to be able to trim the feet properly, have time to shave the udders, have time to go out and graze with the animals." The farm's proximity to Hartsfield-Jackson Airport is notable: "We’re 7 miles from Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport." Rigdon emphasizes rotational grazing: "Approximately 70% of the diet of the animals comes from the rotational grazing on our organic pastures."

The Importance of Terroir:

Chef Nutter describes his appreciation for Decimal Place Farm's cheese: "Looking for... a sense of place. A lot of — a lot of regions' cheeses could be the same, same recipe. But because of the... grass that they chose... the flavor is a little different. The terroir is different." He adds, "You get the taste of the land."

Cheese-Making Process:

Rigdon explains her cheese-making journey: "Because I started out very small and just for myself, I started with buttermilk from the grocery store as a — as a bacteria to grow in the cheese." She stresses the importance of diet: "We walk the pastures with them and check out the woods to make sure that there's no cherry, no rhododendron ... the poison ivy, the kudzu and all of that is — is a part of the variety of their diet." She also notes seasonal variations: "In the fall, we have the, the acorns falling... And that gives us a much creamier cheese to make."

Goat Husbandry:

Rigdon chose Saanen goats for their temperament: "I’ve got peaceful, calm, quiet." She manages their grazing and comfort meticulously, even providing fans during hot weather. Nacho, the goats' patriarch, ensures healthy offspring, she said: "I look at production records of the mothers of these animals." Baby goats are carefully nurtured, with the males often becoming "forage pets" or brush control animals.

The Cheese Making Process Detailed:

The milking process is rigorous: "Twice a day, every day; 8 in the morning and then 7:30 at night." Rigdon explains the culture's role: "The culture comes through and changes the milk molecule so that it's ready when the when it comes to cheese." She also clarifies the function of rennet: "Rennet... is the coagulate, and it stops that reaction and seizes it." A mishap with rennet results in "a very beautiful buttermilk," which inspires Chef Nutter: "Voila! As I say, I’ll find something to do this."

Cheese Tasting and Chef Nutter’s Impressions:

Chef Nutter samples the chevre, tuma, and cheddar, noting: "So smooth, grassy, real subtle citrus notes." He praises the cheddar's complexity: "Oh, I love the way it smells." Rigdon highlights the farm's connection to local chefs: "It's wonderful to share the farm with Chef Nutter... to be able to show what on a small acreage can be done so that it is sustainable year round."

 

A Fork in the Road airs Saturdays at noon and Sundays at 6:30 a.m. on GPB-TV. Check your local listings for other replays throughout the week and watch all episodes anytime at GPB.org/ForkintheRoad.  Please download and subscribe to the Fork in the Road podcast at GPB.org/ForkintheRoadpodcast or on your favorite podcast platform as well.